It's that time of the summer... trip reports are being posted everywhere. It's a tradition as old as the boot stains on the grit-strewn floorboards of ancient mead-halls like Heorot. In earliest times, they might go like this:
There was Shield Sheafson, scourge of many tribes,
a wrecker of mead-benches, rampaging among foes.
Even as we try to suck the marrow out of these reports, we have to pick through distracting details. Probably, even back in the day, all the listener really wanted to know was:
Was Grendel hard to defeat? and... What about that underwater cave? and... What was Beowulf's weapon of choice?
Which, in modern parlance, can be roughly translated as:
How hard was the peak? and... Was there lots of snow? and... What gear do I need on my own attempt on it next week?
So, I'll cut to the chase. No poetry. Here's what you want to know:
Matterhorn Peak, 12,280', in the NE reaches of Yosemite National Park, climbed on 8/16/17 from Burro Pass via the Robinson Lakes trail out of Twin Lakes. Despite the Hoover Wilderness rangers saying snow line is 10,000', there was only patchy snow on our approach and ascent south of the Sawtooth ridge. Although we practiced with crampons and ice axes, all the snow could be easily skirted on rock or was soft enough to be traversed in hiking shoes, even in early am. The Matterhorn ascent was all rock, clear of snow, mostly Class 3. By exiting right off the ridge, but staying left near the top, we avoided the obvious, but loose gully, and enjoyed solid and fun granite climbing, with one short exposed traverse. Beautiful camping and plenty of spots at the lakes below and to the west of Burro Pass (see picture above). We continued east over Matterhorn Pass, using the north slab descent (NOT the south loose gully), with a great campsite west of and above Horse Creek Pass (Base Camp for the eastern Matterhorn ascent, no doubt). A beautiful waterfall, with hundreds of flowers and golden granite, above this camp is reached by a small trail... (oops, I diverge into irrelevant details). Final half day down Horse Creek, talus-hopping and following climbers trail, to Twin Lakes, making a roughly 25-mile loop with 5,500' vert.
That's it. That's all you came here for. But here's what Team Matterhorn said about it (click on their photos to access their Instagram photostream):
There was Shield Sheafson, scourge of many tribes,
a wrecker of mead-benches, rampaging among foes.
Even as we try to suck the marrow out of these reports, we have to pick through distracting details. Probably, even back in the day, all the listener really wanted to know was:
Was Grendel hard to defeat? and... What about that underwater cave? and... What was Beowulf's weapon of choice?
Which, in modern parlance, can be roughly translated as:
How hard was the peak? and... Was there lots of snow? and... What gear do I need on my own attempt on it next week?
So, I'll cut to the chase. No poetry. Here's what you want to know:
Matterhorn Peak, 12,280', in the NE reaches of Yosemite National Park, climbed on 8/16/17 from Burro Pass via the Robinson Lakes trail out of Twin Lakes. Despite the Hoover Wilderness rangers saying snow line is 10,000', there was only patchy snow on our approach and ascent south of the Sawtooth ridge. Although we practiced with crampons and ice axes, all the snow could be easily skirted on rock or was soft enough to be traversed in hiking shoes, even in early am. The Matterhorn ascent was all rock, clear of snow, mostly Class 3. By exiting right off the ridge, but staying left near the top, we avoided the obvious, but loose gully, and enjoyed solid and fun granite climbing, with one short exposed traverse. Beautiful camping and plenty of spots at the lakes below and to the west of Burro Pass (see picture above). We continued east over Matterhorn Pass, using the north slab descent (NOT the south loose gully), with a great campsite west of and above Horse Creek Pass (Base Camp for the eastern Matterhorn ascent, no doubt). A beautiful waterfall, with hundreds of flowers and golden granite, above this camp is reached by a small trail... (oops, I diverge into irrelevant details). Final half day down Horse Creek, talus-hopping and following climbers trail, to Twin Lakes, making a roughly 25-mile loop with 5,500' vert.
That's it. That's all you came here for. But here's what Team Matterhorn said about it (click on their photos to access their Instagram photostream):
Our Leader, Fred Bauman:
Matterhorn Peak (12,280 ft)! Awesome hike and climb with the east side team! The mountains, light, clouds, water and air deliver again!
Matterhorn Peak (12,280 ft)! Awesome hike and climb with the east side team! The mountains, light, clouds, water and air deliver again!
Ultra-runner, Andy Glaze:
Bagged Matterhorn Peak (12,279') in Yosemite during my epic backpacking trip. Mostly class 3 climbing with a little class 4 at the top. We climbed Burro pass and followed the ridge up. That Sawtooth Ridge is breathtaking. Last vacation before UTMB. Take that Kerouac.
Bagged Matterhorn Peak (12,279') in Yosemite during my epic backpacking trip. Mostly class 3 climbing with a little class 4 at the top. We climbed Burro pass and followed the ridge up. That Sawtooth Ridge is breathtaking. Last vacation before UTMB. Take that Kerouac.
Thirteen-year-old mountaineer, Coby Huizenga:
I loved the rock-climbing above Burro pass. Great granite. Especially the exposed ridge.
I loved the rock-climbing above Burro pass. Great granite. Especially the exposed ridge.
Charlie Huizenga, photographer and acrobatic summiteer:
No words... (his pictures speak for themselves).
No words... (his pictures speak for themselves).
Jeanne Panek (me), smallest of the team:
First time with crampons and ice axe for Coby!
Great ascent team with @fred.bauman, @charlie.huizenga, @amglaze, and Coby.
First time with crampons and ice axe for Coby!
Great ascent team with @fred.bauman, @charlie.huizenga, @amglaze, and Coby.
